Help with movement photos!

[emily corrie]

My movement photos are always crummy quality. It doesn't matter if it's jumping or trotting or whatever. I'm shooting with a Canon 24-105 f/4 L IS (30D body) and I absolutely love it (it's my only zoom lens at the moment). Conformation/portrait/etc shots are great, but as soon as I try for movement the images come out looking like they're off of any old point-and-shoot: definitely not Canon L material. It's very frustrating. What am I doing wrong? Or does the lens have autofocus issues?

These are some images I shot for my sister the other day. Pulled straight from the camera (although flickr tends to sharpen them a little I find). Rubbish!

f/6.3, 1/250, ISO 200:


100%


f/6.3, 1/320, ISO 200:


100%


And for comparison, portrait right before the workout (some post-pro):


Help!

[Stephen Crowers]

You're shooting at 1/250th. That's probably not fast enough to be really sharp for movement at that focal length, can you shoot wider or at a higher ISO? I normally try to be at 1/400 or faster.

[emily corrie]

Should I shoot with a higher ISO then or wider aperture? I've always thought aperture shouldn't be too wide when doing horses (esp movement) because then you're going to get a saddle or a head or something in focus and the rest out?

[Judy Bosco]

Should I shoot with a higher ISO then or wider aperture? I've always thought aperture shouldn't be too wide when doing horses (esp movement) because then you're going to get a saddle or a head or something in focus and the rest out?

It depends on what you are shooting. If you are shooting jumping and they are coming right at you, you will need a deeper depth of field. Shooting a horse trotting in a ring, shooting to his or her side, you can get away with a shallower depth of field.

[Roberta McGowan]

Have you used a monopod? I find the slightest shake can affect the sharpness - especially when you're shooting a moving target and you may be moving also. Also, I recommend an shutter speed of at least 500 and 1000 if you can. I would use shutter priority.

Roberta

[Amanda Lehning]

I'm still very much learning, and I encountered the same issue as you are having. I was told to increase the shutter speed - 250/th just wasn't working for me, my images were coming out a little fuzzy. I now shoot with at least 640th/sec or more and I've been thrilled with the result. It's taken me to a whole new level I feel anyway!

I bump the ISO up if I want a narrower aperture, or if I want a wider aperature, I leave it around 300 ish depending on lighting conditions. I'm still refining all that- it's a whole lot to take in and learn.

I also have to mentally keep myself in check by making sure I focus on the eye at all times. Sometimes my hands drop and I get great focus on a shoulder, or foot! LOL. But then the eye isn't as crisp and it really ruins a picture.

[emily corrie]

Have you used a monopod? I find the slightest shake can affect the sharpness - especially when you're shooting a moving target and you may be moving also. Also, I recommend an shutter speed of at least 500 and 1000 if you can. I would use shutter priority.

Roberta

This lens has IS - shouldn't that be enough?

[Roberta McGowan]

This lens has IS - shouldn't that be enough?[/quote]

I feel IS is nice to have, but I don't rely on it. You can test it yourself and see if you like the results.

Roberta

[emily corrie]

I don't have a monopod. Maybe I'll rent one and see what the difference is.

I shot some jumping photos yesterday on about 1/640 and the results were a bit better. I need massive practice. Now my goal will be to get the face in focus rather than the saddle which is what I've got now
Movement photos are definitely more tricky and I don't have much experience with them because I've always been frustrated. Now it's a matter of juggling everything with a much higher shutter speed than I'm used to. All of my photos yesterday were very poorly exposed (although the lighting was terrible in the first place). Blah!
I have new appreciation for action photographers!

[Barb Young]

Get a monopod and practice using it. Shoot movement at 500, ISO 400 except bright sun. You need both ears up. A longer zoom would give you more freedom.

There is a great Equine Basic Photography course, taught by our own Carien Schippers (ImagEquine.com), starting in June. http://www.equinephotographers.org/courses/basic4.php, and there are a couple of good books on shooting horses in the EPNet book store (Home page, scroll down left column).